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The Dirty Dozen Chemicals in Cosmetics
products, Fragrances, Skin Care
Beauty is only skin deep, but the products we use to attain it
contain chemicals that may penetrate far deeper. The average
adult uses nine personal care products a day, with roughly 120
chemicals spread among them, many of which are incompletely
tested for toxicity.
exposure to any of them is unlikely to cause harm, but daily
exposure over a lifetime may add up. When shopping, be prepared to spend some time reading
labels; even brands that advertise themselves as "natural" or "botanical" have been known to include
some of these (see our Smart Shopper's Dirty Dozen Ingredients card).
1. Antibacterials
Overuse of antibacterials can prevent them from effectively fighting disease-causing germs like E. coli
and Salmonella enterica. Triclosan, widely used in soaps, toothpastes and deodorants, has been
detected in breast milk, and one recent study found that it interferes with testosterone activity in cells.
Numerous studies have found that washing with regular soap and warm water is just as effective at
killing germs.
2. Coal Tar
Coal tar is a known human carcinogen used as an active ingredient in dandruff shampoos and anti-itch
creams. Coal-tar-based dyes such as FD&C Blue 1, used in toothpastes, and FD&C Green 3, used in
mouthwash, have been found to be carcinogenic in animal studies when injected under skin.
3. Diethanolamine (DEA)
DEA is a possible hormone disruptor, has shown limited evidence of carcinogenicity and depletes the
body of choline needed for fetal brain development. DEA can also show up as a contaminant in
products containing related chemicals, such as cocamide DEA.
4. 1,4-Dioxane
1,4-Dioxane is a known animal carcinogen and a possible human carcinogen that can appear as a
contaminant in products containing sodium laureth sulfate and ingredients that include the terms
"PEG," "-xynol," "ceteareth," "oleth" and most other ethoxylated "eth" ingredients. The FDA monitors
products for the contaminant but has not yet recommended an exposure limit. Manufacturers can
remove dioxane through a process called vacuum stripping, but a small amount usually remains. A
2007 survey by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found that most children's bath products contain 10
parts per million or less, but an earlier 2001 survey by the FDA found levels in excess of 85 parts per
million.
5. Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde has a long list of adverse health effects, including immune-system toxicity, respiratory
irritation and cancer in humans. Yet it still turns up in baby bath soap, nail polish, eyelash adhesive
and hair dyes as a contaminant or break-down product of diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea and
quaternium compounds.
6. Fragrance
The catchall term "fragrance" may mask phthalates, which act as endocrine disruptors and may cause
obesity and reproductive and developmental harm. Avoid phthalates by selecting essential-oil
fragrances instead.
7. Lead and Mercury
Neurotoxic lead may appear in products as a naturally occurring contaminant of hydrated silica, one of
the ingredients in toothpaste, and lead acetate is found in some brands of men's hair dye.
Brain-damaging mercury, found in the preservative thimerosol, is used in some mascaras.
8. Nanoparticles
Tiny nanoparticles, which may penetrate the skin and damage brain cells, are appearing in an
increasing number of cosmetics and sunscreens. Most problematic are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
nanoparticles, used in sunscreens to make them transparent. When possible, look for sunscreens
containing particles of these ingredients larger than 100 nanometers. You'll most likely need to call
companies to confirm sizes, but a few manufacturers have started advertising their lack of
nanoparticle-sized ingredients on labels. For a more complete discussion, see Screen Test: Reading
the Micro-Fine Print.
9. Parabens
(methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, isobutyl-) Parabens, which have weak estrogenic effects, are common
preservatives that appear in a wide array of toiletries. A study found that butyl paraben damaged
sperm formation in the testes of mice, and a relative, sodium methylparaben, is banned in cosmetics
by the E.U. Parabens break down in the body into p-hydroxybenzoic acid, which has estrogenic activity
in human breast-cancer cell cultures.
10. Petroleum Distillates
Possible human carcinogens, petroleum distillates are prohibited or restricted for use in cosmetics in
the E.U. but are found in several U.S. brands of mascara, foot-odor powder and other products. Look
out for the terms "petroleum" or "liquid paraffin."
11. P-Phenylenediamine
Commonly found in hair dyes, this chemical can damage the nervous system, cause lung irritation and
cause severe allergic reactions. It's also listed as 1,4-Benzenediamine; p-Phenyldiamine and
4-Phenylenediamine.
12. Hydroquinone
Found in skin lighteners and facial moisturizers, hydroquinone is neurotoxic and allergenic, and there's
limited evidence that it may cause cancer in lab animals. It may also appear as an impurity not listed
on ingredients labels.
What You Can Do
* Complain to your drugstore when you see unhealthy ingredients in their consumer products. They
may be unaware.
* Visit www.safecosmetics.org/companies to find companies that have signed the Compact for Safe
Cosmetics, a pledge to remove chemicals linked to cancer, birth defects and other health problems.
* Take action in support of your right to buy safe personal care products at
www.safecosmetics.org/action.
Resources
* Campaign for Safe Cosmetics: www.safecosmetics.org
* Skin Deep: www.cosmeticdatabase.com
* National Library of Medicine's Household Products Database: www.householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov


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